What To Do In Dublin. 5 Walks To Show You Real Dublin.
What To Do In Dublin
I just googled "What to do in Dublin" and the suggestions from big travel sites & influencer blogs are as dismal as the Irish weather in January. They all recommend the same old tourist spots in the city center that just take your money. So let's skip the old churches and dusty museums. Instead, let's see the real Dublin.
Get Out Of Dublin!
And yes, this bold advice is coming from a very proud Dubliner! If you're coming to Ireland for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, don't spend too long in Dublin. I love my home city, but what makes Ireland unique isn't our cities. It's our wild Atlantic coastline, our rural villages, and those isolated islands where Irish is still spoken.
Discover Dubliners Dublin
But if you're staying in Dublin, I'll make sure you see it right, I know every inch of my hometown. I've seen what makes visitors eyes light up (and it's not an 8th century religious book).
I've created five tours that take you beyond the usual tourist spots. You'll see the City Centre, but the real magic of Dublin lives in its coastal villages and mountain paths. These are the places where actual Dubliners spend their weekends - places most visitors never discover.
5 Best Dublin Day Tours
- City: Dublin City Centre. Where to stay, eat, drink & where to avoid.
- Village: Spend Saturday morning in a local village with Dubliners.
- Sea: Walk along the Dublin seafront and swim with the locals.
- Mountains: Hike the Wicklow Mountains with an Irish hiking group.
- Cliffs: If you only have one day in Dublin, do the Cliffs tour.
Getting Around Dublin
Dublin is small. You can the entire city center easily and all my tours are designed for walking & taking the DART light rail. Stick the DART and Luas. They are easier to navigate than the buses.
Dublin Weather
Ireland has this image of being cold and wet. The weather is actually mild & Dublin feels warmer than the temperature suggests. Layer up and bring a light rain coat.
Unless you're coming in the winter, then bring everything!!
Tour 1. Dublin City
Guinness Storehouse Tour
After all that talk about showing you real and local Dublin, let's start at the most popular tourist attraction in Ireland, the Guinness Storehouse 😂
Let me explain
- Everyone goes anyway. I've given up fighting it.
- If you are arriving from the US, you land very early. I've flown from the US to Dublin about 100 times. You're tired, but you can't check in to your hotel yet. So you'll need energy to keep going.
The Guinness Storehouse is perfect for this. It's loud & busy. There's music & Guinness. It's a good tour to be fair. The 360 degree view of the city from the Guinness Gravity Bar is excellent for getting your bearings in Dublin.
Croke Park Skywalk
This is an alternate to Guinness. It's on a stadium roof so it'll keep you awake!
Croke Park is the 4th biggest stadium in Europe and is home to the GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association). The GAA is a core part of Irish life. Its sports, hurling and Gaelic football, are only played in Ireland, and players compete for pride of their county, not money, as it's totally amateur.
I just did the Skywalk myself for the first time and was surprised how good it was. I went to it thinking it was a sports tour, but it's more of a Dublin tour. The tour guide was great fun and mixed Irish history, with Dublin history, with Gaelic sports. And the view over Dublin is even better than the Gravity Bar.
Take a €10 taxi here. It's just outside the very central part of the city and some of the streets aren't so nice. On game day, walk with everyone else.
Go To A Game At Croke Park
If there's a GAA game on during your visit, go to it. Hurling is the fastest & most skillful ball sport in the world. Even if the game is sold out, go to the bars near the stadium and watch it there. The atmosphere is electric. You'll see rival county fans slag each other mercilessly, then share pints and laugh together after the game. That's Ireland for you.
What To See in Dublin City Centre
I don't like giving set turn left, go here, go there directions in cities. We're all different, what I like, you may not, so just go explore the area in red below. This is the best part of the city in Dublin. It's full of side streets, local shops, pubs and restaurants to pick from.
You can use Dame Street (south), George's Street (west), Stephen's Green (north), Merrion Square (east) as guides. But go get lost and find your own best of Dublin.
Shopping in Dublin
Grafton Street
Grafton Street is the main shopping street. Being honest, apart from the buskers and very Dublin flower sellers, it doesn't have much charm. It's full of international chains. But it's a good street to use as your guide.
Instead, go to Drury Street, Wicklow Street, Exchequer Street or any of the side streets off Grafton Street. They are full of interesting independent Irish shops.
Powerscourt Townhouse Centre
Don't walk past the architecturally beautiful Powerscourt Townhouse Centre. It's easy to miss. This is where I eat lunch when I'm in town and buy all my gifts from its top quality small Irish businesses here. If you like the Peaky Blinders look, Kennedy & McSharrry has been selling those hats since 1890.
What About The Book Of Kells?
I intentionally don't mention a lot of the typical tourist attractions because I'd rather show you where actual Dubliners spend their time. That's how you get to know a city, not by looking at artifacts behind glass.
But if this is your thing, just about every other guide to Dublin will point you there. Or just look for the herds of sheep wandering Dublin with their Temple Bar bags (kidding, not kidding!)
Dublin Restaurants
To make this easy, work your way to this intersection (Wicklow Street & South William Street) and explore the streets in this area. They are full of coffee shops, cafes, bars & restaurants. In the summer evenings, there's such a buzz around here.
Wicklow Street, Exchequer Street, South William Street, Drury Street & George's Street. This is where the locals go. Not Temple Bar (more on that further down).
https://lovindublin.com is the best local website for food reviews.
Dublin Bars
Old Man Pubs
It's easy to find the best bars, just look for bars with an Irish family name, such as Bowes, Mulligan, Grogan, and McDaids. Colloquially known as Old Man Pubs.
These places are all institutions for the appreciation of Guinness. Don't pass them by, order your pint, and consider how lucky you are to be drinking a pint of delicious Guinness in Dublin right now.
The Best Bars in Dublin City
I did saying finding the good bars is easy, but families have fallen over which are the best. All I can say is that they are my favorites. 30 years of pint filled research has gone into this list.
The Lord Edward
This is my local in town. Always start here chatting with Niall behind the bar.
The Long Hall
A weekday afternoon, sat by the window with a pint. This is life.
The Library Bar
Upstairs in the Central Hotel. Most Dubliners don't even now it's there.
Bowes
Close to Temple Bar, but miles away in quality. Lots of whiskey.
Mulligan's
I spent too much of my Trinity student evenings here. Now I'm older and more sensible. I go during the quieter day instead
Stag's Head
Beautiful and perpetually busy. Tight quarters mean it's a great place to chat to the folks next to you, who may be tourists and locals.
The Bank
Old bank turned fancy bar. I'll bring my visitors who like finer things here.
Grogan's
I don't like the inside of Grogan's but my word, a summer day, sitting outside it, people watching, fabulous.
The Swan
This is under appreciated. Maybe because it's caught between two busy areas, but it's always got space and selected whiskey menu.
The Horseshoe Bar
In the magnificent Shelbourne Hotel, if I am dressed up, I like to go in here and pretend I'm part of Dublin Society.
Not The Hairy Lemon. This one leaves a bitter taste. Many memories of this when it was a proper pub but now it's a tourist bar. I walk quickly by, head bowed.
None of these are hidden gems, but they are the classic Dublin pubs. I need to do a guide to the more off beaten old man pubs to get you further away from the centre and out of your comfort zone. Check back in a month for this.
Temple Bar
Let's get Temple Bar out of the way. Ugh. It's awful. The whole Temple Bar area is overpriced, made for & filled with tourists. Avoid!!! The Brazen Head is just as bad. In fact, if you see any Dublin guide that recommends these places, stop reading immediately. They've lost their credibility once they do.
Temple Bar Alternatives
Instead, here are five infinitely better areas for your night out.
The Classic Dublin Pubs
Walk the area I recommended for the restaurants and you'll bump into most of my top ten favorites.
Camden Street
If I'm going for a bigger night out, then I'll gravitate towards Camden Street. The Camden Mile is full of restaurants & bars. It has a more youthful crowd but there's people of all ages so don't let put you off.
Devitt's bar is lively. Squeeze in and make new friends. Cassidys is a classic. Another gorgeous old Dublin pub. O'Connells is getting back to very Dublin roots. Untouched in decades. Friendly staff though. If there's a bigger crowd of you, the Portobello bar is big and beautiful. If it's a sunny day, the entire workforce of Ireland congregates at The Barge on the canal.
Rathmines
Rathmines's students and young professionals mix in this lively village, creating a buzz that is tolerated by the older characters in the long standing bars.
I absolutely love the Stella Cinema. Forget your sticky floored mall movieplex. This is more an elegant cocktail bar with swanky red velvet draped 1920s movie theater. Plan a night around a few hours here.
The food scene here is just as diverse, with some of Dublin's best casual dining spots tucked between the pubs. It's where locals actually spend their evenings, and you can feel that genuine Dublin atmosphere.
Ranelagh
Ranelagh is the more mature older sibling to neighboring Rathmines. Think cocktail bars with the Devlin's rooftop city views, craft beer spots, minimalist coffee shops and proper Dublin pubs that have somehow survived the area's transformation into one of the city's most desirable neighborhoods.
The food scene matches the sophistication of the bars, with everything from modern Irish to Asian cuisine. Perfect for an evening of bar and dining along leafy Victorian streets.
Stoneybatter
In a rare foray to the Northside, head to Stoneybatter, Dublin's original hipster village. Old Dublin butcher shops and corner stores now sit beside natural wine bars and coffee roasteries, while traditional pubs share streets with craft beer spots.
Its tiny homes have been microscopically expanded to fit the little Fiadhs and Aoibheanns of the thirty-something couples who are resisting the inevitable pull of the 'burbs.
The mix of young creatives and born-and-bred Dubliners gives Stoneybatter its uniqueness. Silent discos next to auld fellas discussing the Dubs football match.
The result is a proper Dublin community rather than a tourist attraction that is perfect for exploring.
D4
In D4, Dublin's poshest postcode, even the pubs have to step up their game. Baggot Street is the central artery here, lined with spots that keep Ireland's ambassadors, lawyers and tech types well watered. The midweek pint hits different here - there's something about watching suited professionals decompress over a perfectly poured Guinness in Dublin's fanciest neighborhood.
From Baggot Street, take a wander down Haddington Road to The Bath or The Old Spot, with an essential pit stop at Ryan's of Beggar's Bush. Or head the other direction up the Grand Canal to O'Brien's on Leeson Street. I do like a tasty midweek pint here.
Traditional Irish Music in Dublin
The guidebooks say go to The Cobblestone for Irish traditional music. It's packed with tourists these days.
Instead, go to Rake The Ashes at Tucker Reilly's on Camden Street on Sunday nights. You'll hear Irish music surrounded by only Irish people. The craic is unreal. I brought a US friend there a few months ago and every single Sunday since, I get a text from here saying "I wish I was back in Tuckers with the Ashes". It's that good.
If you can't make Sundays, Cassidy's on Camden Street have a super local Wednesday night session, while Pipers Corner is another good option for trad music away from the crowds.
Dublin Hotels
Where to Stay in Dublin
South Not North
Dublin is divided into north and south by the River Liffey. Stay on the south side. It's nicer and safer. The north inner city has its fair share of dodgy characters.
New Not Old
And while Dublin's historic buildings look amazing in photos, their narrow staircases and no elevators aren't fun with luggage. Stick to newer hotels and admire the old architecture on your walks instead.
Out Not In
Don't stay in town, instead stay in one of its villages close to the centre. Here's why:
- They're all within a 20 minute walk of town. A walk that takes you through small parks, along the canal and through red brick house squares.
- These hotels are in Dublin's most charming villages, with independent coffee spots and restaurants filled with regulars rather than guidebooks.
- If you stay in the tourist area, you get sucked into its vortex and never leave it.
- Your budget stretches further here with local, not tourist prices.
My Top Five Hotels In Dublin
The Devlin, Ranelagh
A bold, modern hotel who tells me they get more Irish visitors than overseas tourists. That tells you a lot about it.The rooftop restaurant has great city views. The ground floor bar makes excellent cocktails too, and just walk outside the door and you're in maybe my favorite Dublin village, Ranelagh. There's even 1920s style cinema of red velvet seats and cocktails in its basement.
The Mespil Hotel
Right on the Grand Canal, you'll see swans floating past at breakfast. Guests rave about the friendliness of the staff here. If you're in Dublin for work, many of the tech offices are close by. If you're on holidays, nod sympathetically at the lanyard wearers as they wearily walk to work. Walk two minutes to Baggot Street for dinner and a drink.
The Dylan, D4
Tucked away in a quiet Victorian street in posh Dublin 4. It's a 5 star boutique hotel that does luxury without the fuss. The streets around here are Dublin's most expensive. You're a few minutes from Baggot Street's pubs or walk ten minutes to the Old Spot and the Bath Bar. Both gems.
Dublin Hilton Charlemont Place
Another canal side spot (yes, the canal is worth staying near). It's minutes from the lively Camden Street and Portobello. The Luas outside the front door can get you anywhere in Dublin quickly. A Hilton will not scream Dublin at you, but if you're a loyalty points person, then it's a very good option.
The Shelbourne
Right on Stephen's Green and yes, it's expensive. Presidents stay here. But if you're going to splurge, this is it. It's been here since 1824 and feels like it. The bar is classic, afternoon tea is actually worth the hype, and the spa has a pool with a view. Plus, you're looking over Dublin's most beautiful park. If it's within your means, just look here.
Tour 2: The Village
Explore A True Dublin Village
Want to see the real Dublin? Come to my village. Raheny is a regular Dublin village albeit with a 300-year-old ruin. I have the best backyard in Dublin too with gorgeous St Anne's Park and Bull Island nature reserve on my doorstep.
This is a day to brush aside those tired Irish stereotypes about everything revolving around bars. Instead, you'll see how Dubliners actually spend their weekends, out in nature, being active, playing our national sports and swimming in the freezing sea.
What You'll See
Raheny Village
Take the DART to Raheny, a typical Dublin village. Nothing fancy here, just regular village life with our 300 year old church ruin and local cafes where everyone knows each other.
St Anne's Park
One of Dublin's largest green spaces, bustling with weekend life. Join the locals for the free community Park Run, or watch Gaelic Football matches (ask someone about the rules, instant friend made). The farmers market has 20 food stalls, eat on the grass like the rest of us. Walk off your lunch in the Rose Garden and along the hidden river.
Bull Island
Our unintentional island became a UNESCO Biosphere, full of birds who come for our balmy winters. Join the determined Dubliners walking the Bull, or watch them brave the freezing sea. Finish with coffee at Happy Out, a café in a shipping container overlooking the kitesurfing beach.
You'll go home with half a Dublin accent after spending this day away from the city and out in nature with the Dubliners of my village.
Read my full guide for this walk→
Photos from The Village Walk
Photos of The Village Tour
Tour 3. The Sea
Walk Along The Sea in The Wealthy Southside
Today's theme is the sea. This walk takes you through Dublin's wealthiest coastal area, where you'll understand why houses here cost millions.
The Sea tour from Dún Laoghaire to Dalkey is 9kms, all paved. It takes about 3 hours with stops for snaps and coffee.
It's another glimpse at genuine Dublin life away from the busy tourist filled city. Walk along the sea front, swim at the Forty Foot, afternoon tea at Victorian hotels, laugh with Dubliners at the Pavillion, eat a 99 ice cream from Teddy's, fall off paddle boards in Dun Laoghaire, lunch with ladies in Dalkey and catch your breath on the Killiney hills.
What You'll See
Dún Laoghaire
Take the DART to Dún Laoghaire, a busy harbour town full of watersports and food. Come on a Sunday when the Farmers Market at People's Park is on.
Glasthule
We briefly walk away from the sea to visit local village life in coastal Dublin. You know it's a nice area when there's a food emporium. On the way back to the water, we (quickly) pass Dublin's ugliest building.
Sandycove & The Forty Foot
The Forty Foot is Dublin's most famous swimming spot, no matter the weather. Made famous by Joyce and more contemporarily, Bad Sisters. Swim with the locals. Or just hold firmly onto your warm coffee with both hands while shaking your head at them. Your choice.
Dalkey
This is where the rich and briefly famous of Ireland live. Understatedly wealthy. While Dalkey Island could be a monastic settlement in the wilds of western Ireland, rather than within a 9 iron of millionaires row.
Killiney
We end the walk going up hills. But it's worth it. Gorgeous views across Killiney Bay and the Wicklow mountains. You may be envious of those who live here, until the most scenic train ride in Ireland rattles past their windows.
Read my full guide for this walk from Dun Laoghaire To Dalkey & Killiney→
Photos from The Sea Walk
Photos from the Sea Walk
Tour 4. The Mountains
The Wicklow mountains are only 30 minutes from Dublin City center. It's amazing how quickly you go from a busy city to a barren wilderness in the mountains. On a grey day, it can feel like you're in Patagonia. I'm here hiking most weekends.
Hike With Locals
As always, my favorite way to see a place is with the locals. Come with my hiking group that I am member of. We walk every second weekend. They have bus pick up points in Dublin and the price is very reasonable for what is a full day out.
Glendalough
If hiking isn't your thing, no worries. Take a bus tour through the mountains. Don't drive here. You want to be looking at the window, not navigating impossibly narrow mountains roads, where there's often no phone signal.
The buses pass by the Glenmacnass waterfall and then stop at Glendalough. You'll walk through 10th century ruins and along a path to the lakes. It’s a short hike and good for photos. I took all those photos there
Kilkenny
The bus tours also have the option of going to Kilkenny. It makes for a long day, but Kilkenny is one of the nicest small towns in Ireland, so it's worth it.
Note: If you're going to explore more of Ireland, you can skip the Mountains tour. As nice as they are, you're going to see lots of wilderness out west.
Tour 5. The Cliffs
Howth
If you only have one day in Dublin, do this tour. Howth is very firmly on the tourist trail, but rightly so. It's the most beautiful part of all of Dublin. Today you'll walk the Howth Cliff Walk, have fresh fish & chips and take a boat.
Take the DART to Howth. Important. Take the right train. You want the Northbound Dart to Howth (not Malahide).
This is your route for the day. The walking part will take 2 hours. The boat takes an hour and lunch will take an hour too.
The Howth Cliff Walk
This is the highlight of the day. The views from the Howth Cliff Path are just spectacular. You can see all of Dublin Bay across to Wicklow mountains. It is always my guests favorite day of their time in Dublin.
When you get to the lighthouse viewpoint, you can keep walking down to the lighthouse. You'll see some beaches down below and wonder how people get down there.
The Secret Path
On my Friday guided walk, you'll see the secret path that the tourists miss
Is it Dangerous?
No, the Howth Cliff walk is not dangerous, but it is a cliff walk in an often wet & windy country, so be careful and dress appropriately.
Fish & Chips
You're in a fishing village. You have to get super fresh seafood. I like getting lunch at the Summit Inn. It's calmer than the restaurants in the busy harbor area. And less seagulls too! After your lunch, then it's an easy walk down the hill. You'll walk through the lovely village of Howth.
Howth Pier
Walk along a busy working pier. Watch the fishermen preparing the boats to head out & you'll usually find this pair of seals begging for fish. My cousins have a fish shop on this pier (Doran's On The Pier).
Howth & Ireland's Eye Boat Cruise
After all that walking, you get to relax while seeing the cliffs from the water. I absolutely recommend taking one of the boat cruises. The entertaining captains alone are worth it. Here's two options for you.
Ireland's Eye cruise
Cruise around the small island off the coast. It gives you a close up look at the island and the cliffs. It starts and ends in Howth.
Cruise From Howth To Dun Laoghaire
Or take the boat across Dublin Bay to the other side of the city. You don't see as much of Ireland's Eye but the Bay cross is stunning. You have the Wicklow Mountains in the background. I prefer this option.
When you dock, you explore Dún Laoghaire before taking the DART back into the city. But don't forget that Dun Laoghaire is the starting point for the Sea walk to Dalkey. It's a great way to cover two of my tours in one day.
Come on a Guided Walk of The Cliffs
You won't get lost on the wild cliffs on our walk. And, I'll show you the secret spots too. We go on Fridays, before the crowds.
Dublin Itineraries
1 Day Dublin Itinerary
Start early, do the Cliff Tour. Take the boat to Dun Laoghaire, do my Sea tour, then take DART back into town for the City tour. It'll be a busy day, but you can do it!
2 Day Dublin Itinerary
Day 1. Do the Cliff Tour, then go back into the City and do the City tour into the evening.
Day 2. Do the Village tour if it's a Saturday. Do the Sea tour if it's any other day. You could add on Kilmainham Jail too.
3 Day Dublin Itinerary
Day 1. Do the City tour. Walk and explore the city. I've learn people end up doing more touristy things than I suggest. That's ok, I get it. Go to a comedy club, gig or play at night.
Day 2. Do the Cliffs and take the boat over to Dún Laoghaire to do the Sea tour. If it's a Saturday, swap the Sea for the Village tour.
Day 3. Do the Mountains tour (if you're not exploring more in Ireland)
More Things to Do in Dublin
I keep thinking of more things to do, so I'll add them on here.
Stay in Malahide Before You Fly
If you're just coming back to Dublin for one night before you fly home, stay in Malahide for the night. It's a gorgeous coastal village that's close to the airport. Or just come visit it for the day on the DART.
Portmarnock To Malahide Walk
Take the DART to Portmarnock and walk 90 minutes to Malahide. Get lunch or dinner there, and take the train back in from Malahide.
Eat In Greystones
Greystones is another coastal village that's worth a day trip. Ireland's best Indian restaurant is there and you've probably been bombarded on Instagram by the antics of The Happy Pear who are based there. You've guessed it, take the DART to get there.
Dublin Comedy Clubs
There's nothing like Irish humor. Catch a comedy night. The one at the Intentional Bar is my favorite. It's tiny. You might be sitting on stage.
Local Theater
Check the Pavillion Theater schedule in Dun Laoghaire. They have excellent Irish shows, singers & comedians. See some Irish culture in a local setting.
Kilmainham Gaol
It is a very important part of Irish history. It's powerful, somber, and a place that I've been to many times. Book far ahead for it. Make a day of it and visit the Irish Museum of Modern Art, also known as IMMA, across the road from it. Then go to the nearby Irish National War Memorial Gardens and walk along the Liffey. Fabulous flowers there during Bloom Season and walking the university rowers glide. In fact, I need to write a full post about this day out. Subscribe to be notified.
Got Questions About Dublin?
Leave it in the comments below or on Facebook - I answer quickly on both. (Please note: I can't answer individual emails, I get too many!).
Let Me Show You Dublin
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Darragh
