What To Do In Dublin. 5 Walks To Show You Real Dublin.
What To Do In Dublin
I just googled "What to do in Dublin" and the suggestions from big travel sites & influencer blogs are as dismal as the Irish weather in January. They all recommend the same old tourist spots in the city center that just take your money. So let's skip the old churches and dusty museums. Instead, let's see the real Dublin.
Get Out Of Dublin!
And yes, this bold advice is coming from a very proud Dubliner! If you're coming to Ireland for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, don't spend too long in Dublin. I love my home city, but what makes Ireland unique isn't our cities. It's our wild Atlantic coastline, our rural villages, and those isolated islands where Irish is still spoken.
Discover Dubliners Dublin
But if you're staying in Dublin, I'll make sure you see it right, I know every inch of my hometown. I've seen what makes visitors eyes light up (and it's not an 8th century religious book).
I've created five tours that take you beyond the usual tourist spots. You'll see the City Centre, but the real magic of Dublin lives in its coastal towns and mountains. These are the places where actual Dubliners spend their weekends, places most visitors never discover.
5 Best Dublin Day Tours
- City: Dublin City Centre. Where to stay, eat, drink & where to avoid.
- Village: Spend Saturday morning in a local village with Dubliners.
- Sea: Walk along the Dublin seafront and swim with the locals.
- Mountains: Hike the Wicklow Mountains with an Irish hiking group.
- Cliffs: If you only have one day in Dublin, do the Cliffs tour.
Tour 1. Dublin City
Guinness Storehouse Tour
After all that talk about showing you real and local Dublin, let's start at the most popular tourist attraction in Ireland, the Guinness Storehouse 😂
Let me explain
- Everyone goes anyway. I've given up fighting it.
- If you are arriving from the US, you land very early. I've flown from the US to Dublin about 100 times. You're tired, but you can't check in to your hotel yet. So you'll need energy to keep going.
The Guinness Storehouse is perfect for this. It's loud & busy. There's music & Guinness. It's a good tour to be fair. The 360 degree view of the city from the Guinness Gravity Bar is excellent for getting your bearings in Dublin.
Croke Park Skywalk
This is an alternate to Guinness. It's on a stadium roof so it'll keep you awake!
Croke Park is the 4th biggest stadium in Europe and is home to the GAA (Gaelic Athletic Association). The GAA is a core part of Irish life. Its sports, hurling and Gaelic football, are only played in Ireland, and players compete for pride of their county, not money, as it's totally amateur.
I just did the Skywalk myself for the first time and was surprised how good it was. I went to it thinking it was a sports tour, but it's more of a Dublin tour. The tour guide was great fun and mixed Irish history, with Dublin history, with Gaelic sports. And the view over Dublin is even better than the Gravity Bar.
Take a €10 taxi here. It's just outside the very central part of the city and some of the streets aren't so nice. On game day, walk with everyone else.
Go To A Game At Croke Park
If there's a GAA game on during your visit, go to it. Hurling is the fastest & most skillful ball sport in the world. Even if the game is sold out, go to the bars near the stadium and watch it there. The atmosphere is electric. You'll see rival county fans slag each other mercilessly, then share pints and laugh together after the game. That's Ireland for you.
What To See in Dublin City Centre
I don't like giving set directions in cities so just go explore the area in red below. This is the best part of the city in Dublin. It's full of side streets, local shops, pubs and restaurants to pick from.
You can use Dame Street (south), George's Street (west), Stephen's Green (north), Merrion Square (east) as guides. But go get lost and find your own best of Dublin.
Shopping in Dublin
Grafton Street
Grafton Street is the main shopping street. Apart from the buskers and very Dublin flower sellers, it doesn't have much charm. It's full of international chains.
Instead, go to Drury Street, Wicklow Street, Exchequer Street or any of the side streets off Grafton Street. They are full of interesting independent Irish shops.
Powerscourt Townhouse Centre
Don't walk past the Powerscourt Townhouse Centre. It's easy to miss because its beautiful architecture means it doesn't look like a shopping centre.. This is where I eat lunch when I'm in town and buy all my gifts from its top quality small Irish businesses here. If you like the Peaky Blinders look, Kennedy & McSharrry has been selling those hats since 1890.
What About The Book Of Kells?
I intentionally don't mention a lot of the typical tourist attractions because I'd rather show you where actual Dubliners spend their time. That's how you get to know a city, not by looking at artifacts behind glass.
But if this is your thing, just about every other guide to Dublin will point you there. Or just look for the herds of sheep wandering Dublin with their Temple Bar bags (kidding, not kidding!)
Dublin Restaurants
To make this easy, work your way to this intersection (Wicklow Street & South William Street) and explore the streets in this area. They are full of coffee shops, cafes, bars & restaurants. In the summer evenings, there's such a buzz around here.
Wicklow Street, Exchequer Street, South William Street, Drury Street & George's Street. This is where the locals go. Not Temple Bar (more on that further down).
https://lovindublin.com is the best local website for food reviews.
Dublin Bars
Old Man Pubs
It's easy to find the best bars, just look for bars with an Irish family name, such as Bowes, Mulligan, Grogan, and McDaids. Colloquially known as Old Man Pubs.
These places are all institutions for the appreciation of Guinness. Don't pass them by, order your pint, and consider how lucky you are to be drinking a pint of delicious Guinness in Dublin right now.
The Best Bars in Dublin City
I did saying finding the good bars is easy, but families have fallen over which are the best. All I can say is that they are my favorites. 30 years of pint filled research has gone into this list.
The Lord Edward
This is my local in town. Always start here chatting with Niall behind the bar.
The Long Hall
A weekday afternoon, sat by the window with a pint. This is life.
The Library Bar
Upstairs in the Central Hotel. Most Dubliners don't even now it's there.
Bowes
Close to Temple Bar, but miles away in quality. Lots of whiskey.
Mulligan's
I spent too much of my Trinity student evenings here. Now I'm older and more sensible. I go during the quieter day instead
Stag's Head
Beautiful and perpetually busy. Tight quarters mean it's a great place to chat to the folks next to you, who may be tourists and locals.
The Bank
Old bank turned fancy bar. I'll bring my visitors who like finer things here.
Grogan's
I don't like the inside of Grogan's but my word, a summer day, sitting outside it, people watching, fabulous.
The Swan
This is under appreciated. Maybe because it's caught between two busy areas, but it's always got space and selected whiskey menu.
The Horseshoe Bar
In the magnificent Shelbourne Hotel, if I am dressed up, I like to go in here and pretend I'm part of Dublin Society.
Not The Hairy Lemon. This one leaves a bitter taste. Many memories of this when it was a proper pub but now it's a tourist bar. I walk quickly by, head bowed.
None of these are hidden gems, but they are the classic Dublin pubs. I need to do a guide to the more off beaten old man pubs to get you further away from the centre and out of your comfort zone. Check back in a month for this.
Temple Bar
Let's get Temple Bar out of the way. Ugh. It's awful. The whole Temple Bar area is overpriced, made for & filled with tourists. Avoid!!! The Brazen Head is just as bad. In fact, if you see any Dublin guide that recommends these places, stop reading immediately. They've lost their credibility once they do.
Temple Bar Alternatives
Instead, here are seven infinitely better areas for your night out.
Traditional Irish Music in Dublin
The guidebooks say go to The Cobblestone for Irish traditional music. It's packed with tourists these days.
Instead, go to Rake The Ashes at Tucker Reilly's on Camden Street on Sunday nights. You'll hear Irish music surrounded by only Irish people. The craic is unreal. I brought a US friend there a few months ago and every single Sunday since, I get a text from here saying "I wish I was back in Tuckers with the Ashes". It's that good.
If you can't make Sundays, Cassidy's on Camden Street have a super local Wednesday night session, while Pipers Corner is another good option for trad music away from the crowds.
Dublin Hotels
Where to Stay in Dublin
South Not North
Dublin is divided into north and south by the River Liffey. Stay on the south side. It's nicer and safer. The north inner city has its fair share of dodgy characters.
New Not Old
And while Dublin's historic buildings look amazing in photos, their narrow staircases and no elevators aren't fun with luggage. Stick to newer hotels and admire the old architecture on your walks instead.
Out Not In
Don't stay in town, instead stay in one of its villages close to the centre. Here's why:
- They're all within a 20 minute walk of town. A walk that takes you through small parks, along the canal and through red brick house squares.
- These hotels are in Dublin's most charming villages, with independent coffee spots and restaurants filled with regulars rather than guidebooks.
- If you stay in the tourist area, you get sucked into its vortex and never leave it.
- Your budget stretches further here with local, not tourist prices.
My Top Five Hotels In Dublin
The Devlin, Ranelagh
A bold, modern hotel who tells me they get more Irish visitors than overseas tourists. That tells you a lot about it.The rooftop restaurant has great city views. The ground floor bar makes excellent cocktails too, and just walk outside the door and you're in maybe my favorite Dublin village, Ranelagh. There's even 1920s style cinema of red velvet seats and cocktails in its basement.
The Mespil Hotel
Right on the Grand Canal, you'll see swans floating past at breakfast. Guests rave about the friendliness of the staff here. If you're in Dublin for work, many of the tech offices are close by. If you're on holidays, nod sympathetically at the lanyard wearers as they wearily walk to work. Walk two minutes to Baggot Street for dinner and a drink.
The Dylan, D4
Tucked away in a quiet Victorian street in posh Dublin 4. It's a 5 star boutique hotel that does luxury without the fuss. The streets around here are Dublin's most expensive. You're a few minutes from Baggot Street's pubs or walk ten minutes to the Old Spot and the Bath Bar. Both gems.
Dublin Hilton Charlemont Place
Another canal side spot (yes, the canal is worth staying near). It's minutes from the lively Camden Street and Portobello. The Luas outside the front door can get you anywhere in Dublin quickly. A Hilton will not scream Dublin at you, but if you're a loyalty points person, then it's a very good option.
The Shelbourne
Right on Stephen's Green and yes, it's expensive. Presidents stay here. But if you're going to splurge, this is it. It's been here since 1824 and feels like it. The bar is classic, afternoon tea is actually worth the hype, and the spa has a pool with a view. Plus, you're looking over Dublin's most beautiful park. If it's within your means, just look here.
Tour 2: The Village
A Saturday Morning in Real Dublin
Want to see how Dubliners actually spend their weekends? Come to my village. This is where I live and I have the best backyard in Dublin with gorgeous St Anne's Park and Bull Island nature reserve on my doorstep. The views to Howth and the Wicklow Mountains are nice backdrops for my morning coffee too.
Forget those tired Irish stereotypes about everything revolving around pubs. Instead, you'll see how Dubliners actually spend their weekends, out in nature in Dublin's most beautiful park, being active with community building runs, playing our national sports, and eating at the Farmers Market, plus swimming in the freezing sea on the island that man accidentally made.
Read my full guide for the Village walk→
Tour 3. The Sea
A Walk Along Dublin's Millionaire Coast
Today's theme is the sea. This walk takes you through Dublin's wealthiest coastal area, where you'll understand why houses here cost millions. It's a 9km walk from Dún Laoghaire to Killiney, all paved, taking about 3 hours with stops for snaps and coffee.
Walk along the sea front, swim at the Forty Foot in Sandycove, (or just watch the locals do it while clutching your hot coffee), afternoon tea at Victorian hotels, lunch with ladies in Dalkey and catch your breath on the Killiney hills.
Read my full guide for this walk from Dun Laoghaire To Dalkey & Killiney→
Tour 4. The Mountains
From City to Wilderness in 30 Minutes
It's amazing how quickly you go from busy city to barren wilderness in the Wicklow Mountains. On a grey day, it can feel like you're in Patagonia. I'm here hiking most weekends.
Want the real experience? Come with my hiking group. We walk every second weekend. Or if hiking isn't your thing, take a bus tour through the mountains. Don't drive here. You want to be looking at the window, not navigating impossibly narrow mountain roads where there's often no phone signal.
Full Guide Coming Soon!
Tour 5. The Cliffs
If You Only Have One Day in Dublin, do this tour
Howth is very firmly on the tourist trail, but rightly so. It's the most beautiful part of all of Dublin with views that you'd expect to see on the Wild Atlantic Way in the west of Ireland, rather than just 30 minutes from town.
Today you'll walk the Howth's utterly stunning Cliff Walk, have fresh fish & chips and take a boat around Ireland's Eye. My family have had long roots in Howth. I'll show you the secret path that tourists miss, introduce you to my cousins at their fish shop on the pier, and tell you how to avoid the weekend crowds.
Read my full Howth Cliffs guide →
Getting Around Dublin
Dublin is small. The central area is walkable. To see more, use the two rail lines, the DART and the Luas. They are easier to navigate than the buses.
Dublin Weather
Ireland has this image of being cold and wet. The weather is actually mild & Dublin feels warmer than the temperature suggests. Layer up and bring a light rain coat.
Unless you're coming in the winter, then bring everything!!
Dublin Itineraries
1 Day Dublin Itinerary
Start early, do the Cliff Tour. Take the boat to Dun Laoghaire, do my Sea tour, then take DART back into town for the City tour. It'll be a busy day, but you can do it!
2 Day Dublin Itinerary
Day 1. Do the Cliff Tour, then go back into the City and do the City tour into the evening.
Day 2. Do the Village tour if it's a Saturday. Do the Sea tour if it's any other day. You could add on Kilmainham Jail too.
3 Day Dublin Itinerary
Day 1. Do the City tour. Walk and explore the city. I've learn people end up doing more touristy things than I suggest. That's ok, I get it. Go to a comedy club, gig or play at night.
Day 2. Do the Cliffs and take the boat over to Dún Laoghaire to do the Sea tour. If it's a Saturday, swap the Sea for the Village tour.
Day 3. Do the Mountains tour (if you're not exploring more in Ireland)
More Things to Do in Dublin
I keep thinking of more things to do, so I'll add them on here.
Stay in Malahide Before You Fly
If you're just coming back to Dublin for one night before you fly home, stay in Malahide for the night. It's a gorgeous coastal village that's close to the airport. Or just come visit it for the day on the DART.
Portmarnock To Malahide Walk
Take the DART to Portmarnock and walk 90 minutes to Malahide. Get lunch or dinner there, and take the train back in from Malahide.
Eat In Greystones
Greystones is another coastal village that's worth a day trip. Ireland's best Indian restaurant is there and you've probably been bombarded on Instagram by the antics of The Happy Pear who are based there. You've guessed it, take the DART to get there.
Dublin Comedy Clubs
There's nothing like Irish humor. Catch a comedy night. The one at the Intentional Bar is my favorite. It's tiny. You might be sitting on stage.
Local Theater
Check the Pavillion Theater schedule in Dun Laoghaire. They have excellent Irish shows, singers & comedians. See some Irish culture in a local setting.
Kilmainham Gaol
It is a very important part of Irish history. It's powerful, somber, and a place that I've been to many times. Book far ahead for it. Make a day of it and visit the Irish Museum of Modern Art, also known as IMMA, across the road from it. Then go to the nearby Irish National War Memorial Gardens and walk along the Liffey. Fabulous flowers there during Bloom Season and walking the university rowers glide. In fact, I need to write a full post about this day out. Subscribe to be notified.
Got Questions About Dublin?
Leave it in the comments below or on Facebook - I answer quickly on both. (Please note: I can't answer individual emails, I get too many!).
Let Me Show You Dublin
- Join my guided walks - it's like having a local friend show you around
- Book a trip planning call with me & save hours of research time
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Darragh
